Do landscapes cup the bitter essences of bygone human suffering?
Does mass atrocity change the delicate blue cast of shadows thrown, for example, by nodding steppe grasses? Or alter the flight of hawks?
And what balance of memory and forgetting can help traumatized cultures move towards healing?
These questions rose to mind as I walked roughly a thousand miles through eastern Turkey and the Caucasus, one of the most gorgeous—and war-haunted—corners of the planet. They are also questions I grapple with in the fifth installment of the “Out of Eden Walk” series of stories in the print edition of National Geographic, now available online. (Read the opening of the story ...