The old cannon shells looked like rusty pineapples.
Construction workers renovating this old Ottoman fort outside the port town of Al Wajh hauled them up in buckets from a long disused well. There were dozens. Some were packed in rotting wood boxes a hundred years old. Probably, the explosives were still dangerous. Naturally, this made me think of Lawrence.
Thomas Edward Lawrence—"Lawrence of Arabia"—has been on my mind lately.
As I walk north through the Hejaz toward Jordan, retracing the wanderings of the earliest humans who spread from Africa, I am traversing, too, the old battlefields of the Arab Revolt, a "sideshow of a sideshow" during World War I, to use ...